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#12
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Chassis in a nice blue gloss now
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Cheers Myles TK restoration blog: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/t...dford-tk.43480 |
#13
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Why blue?
Black would be standard - I don't think I ever saw a blue one. I can't remember whether military vehicles were other than black (chassis). Looks good though - but unusual IMO. |
#14
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It's a good question and I did think long and hard about it, why blue and not black. Here is my reasoning -
If the chassis was going to be visible I would have gone for black
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Cheers Myles TK restoration blog: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/t...dford-tk.43480 |
#15
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It's your wagon, it's your choice!
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#16
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Do you by any chance have the torque settings for installing the front and rear spring shackle bolts? I have been collecting the training manuals but I don't have that one yet!
Rear ones looked as if they had been loctited.
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Cheers Myles TK restoration blog: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/t...dford-tk.43480 |
#17
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MK/MJ (20 inch wheels):-
Spring U-bolt nuts - front 95 lb.ft - rear 140 lb.ft Hanger and shackle bolts and nuts - front 125 lb.ft - rear 190 lb.ft I do not know the respective sizes of the bolts, and, as stated, these figures are for the military 4x4 vehicle. |
#18
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Does any one know the right way to remove the two springs that retract the brake shoes? I've done it various times (on cars) over the years but never what you might call elegantly and usually involving bad language and minor injury :-)
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Cheers Myles TK restoration blog: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/t...dford-tk.43480 Last edited by mylesdw; 3rd April 2015 at 05:08. |
#19
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Quote:
Hope this makes sense as it's hard to describe something without the aid of a picture. |
#20
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There was a tool that was like a lever with a pivotting link attached.
The lever end was 'anchored' against the backplate and the (wire) link hooked around the end of the spring then, using the leverage advantage of the tool the end of the spring was pulled away from the shoe. The manoeuvre was reversed to fit the springs. It would be easy to lash-up a tool like this - you just need a sturdy piece of metal for the lever and a suitable length of wire with an eye one end and a hook at the other. This wire needs to be hardened after shaping. The eye end of the wire attaches to the lever via a 'stud' or bolt (such that it is free to pivot). The distance from the end of the lever depends on the size of the brake and the strength of the springs. I'm sorry that I cannot find a photograph. This is the nearest that I can find:- http://www.fiskars.eu/var/fiskars_em...rning-Hook.jpg Last edited by G-CPTN; 3rd April 2015 at 14:29. |
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